Venice is a beautiful city divided into sestieri (or neighborhoods, but beware of calling them that in front of a Venetian ). Every place here is rich in history and charm. Let's find out more about Cannaregio district . This neighborhood is less crowded with tourists but still offers hidden corners, fascinating stories, and legends.
The Jewish ghetto
One of the most significant places in Cannaregio is the Jewish Ghetto , the first ghetto in the world and the place from which the term itself derives . The first evidence of the Venetian Jewish community dates back to the 12th century. Before 1298, Jews lived mainly on the island of Spinalonga, then called Giudecca. In 1516, the Great Council of Venice allowed Jews to settle in a specific area of the city, known as gèto because of the presence of a foundry.
The term evolved into "ghetto" due to the German pronunciation of many Jewish residents. This neighborhood, rich in history and culture, is a must-see for understanding the importance of the Jewish community in Venice .
Calle Varisco and the mysterious statue of El Vecio Pien de Peo
Strolling through the streets of Cannaregio, you'll come across Calle Varisco , the narrowest street in Venice, only 53 centimeters wide. This narrow alleyway is a curious and unusual stop on your itinerary. Meanwhile, in the small square of Santa Maria Nova, there's a unique statue known as " el vecio pien de peo " (the hairy old man). This statue, located on the façade of Ca' Bembo-Boldù, was commissioned by Gianmatteo Bembo, and its meaning remains a mystery. Some believe it depicts Saturn, others Time, while a more widely accepted interpretation links it to alchemy, with symbols of universal knowledge and the union of intellect and nature.
The Italia Theatre and the Giant Rat Column
Also worth discovering is the historic transformation of the Teatro Italia , an elegant building completed in 1915 that has had a turbulent history. After being closed to the public a few years after its opening, it reopened as a university office and is now a supermarket. This building represents an interesting example of urban reuse and retains its architectural charm despite its changing use.
In Calle Traghetto Vecchio , however, you can see a peculiar engraving on a column of Istrian stone: a large rat, sighted in 1643. This curious episode was so extraordinary that it was immortalised in stone, representing a record-breaking encounter for the time.
More curiosities about the Cannareggio district
Another curiosity in Cannaregio is the Bread Stele , an ancient stone engraved with an 18th-century edict prohibiting the sale of contraband bread. This stele, visible from both sides, informed sellers, buyers, and boatmen of the severe punishments for those who violated the decree, testifying to the importance of trade regulation in the Venetian era.
For those who still want to discover the unusual Venice we also recommend:
- The Ponte de Chiodo is one of two Venetian bridges left without a parapet, a rare feature today. It spans the Rio San Felice and provides access to a private home, offering a unique experience and a glimpse into the lagoon city's past.
- The Venice Santa Lucia railway station , commissioned by the Habsburg government in the mid-19th century, stands on the site of a church dedicated to the saint. The remains of Saint Lucia, brought to Venice from Constantinople in 1204, are now preserved in the nearby church of San Geremia, after being transferred during the construction of the station.
- Palazzo Lezze , a building rich in symbolic bas-reliefs related to philosophy and alchemy. These details, depicting mythological and alchemical figures, add a touch of mystery and charm to the structure, making it a point of interest for history and symbolism enthusiasts.
The church of Santa Maddalena
The Church of the Maddalena, located along one of the busiest streets of Cannaregio, features a unique circular architecture and Masonic details above the entrance . These symbols, such as the eye within a triangle and the inscription " Sapienta aedificavit sibi dominum, " are truly fascinating to discover.
The ghosts of Cannareggio
This sestiere also has its own ghost: Marco Polo's wife. Here, in fact, near the Corte del Milion, Marco Polo's house once stood . Marco Polo's Asian wife, deceived by the merchant's sisters who told her of his death, took her own life by throwing herself from the window. It is said that at night her ghost appears, dressed in white, singing oriental songs and wandering around the courtyard—a sad tale and a legend yet to be verified.
Another sad, and unfortunately true, story from the city is that of the crime at the Palazzo Loredan in Cannaregio: Palazzo Loredan Vendramin Calergi , home to the Venice Casino, was the scene of a brutal crime in 1658. The three Grimani brothers tortured and killed the enemy heir Francesco Querini Stampalia, and were subsequently exiled and the palace partially demolished. A "column of infamy" still commemorates the event today.
But the story also has another twist, involving two other members of these families. It is said that Fosco Loredan, blinded by jealousy, killed his wife Elena Grimani and was sentenced to carry her body to Rome. Rejected by the Pope, he returned to Venice and committed suicide in the Grand Canal. It is said that his ghost still wanders around Campiello Remèr , carrying his wife's head.
The Cannareggio district of Venice: a look at the results
Between the Jewish ghetto and the many evocative stories and legends that animate this sestiere, there's plenty to see. It's safe to say that seeing Venice completely in a single day is simply not possible ! In this case, the best option is to opt for the flexibility of a short-term rental by booking an apartment online .
