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Venice's San Polo District: Its Legends, Between History and Magic

Venice , rich in history and mystery, is home to one of its ancient districts, San Polo, which connects to the heart of the city via the famous Rialto Bridge. In this article, we'll explore some of the fascinating legends surrounding San Polo , from ghost stories to historical events and miracles that have shaped the fabric of this evocative Venetian neighborhood. Connected to San Marco by the majestic Rialto Bridge, San Polo is an almost obligatory crossroads during a visit to the city and its districts .

Rio de le Do Torre and the Church of Lattuga

The San Polo district is home to fascinating legends, including that of the Rio de le Do Torre and the mysterious "Church of the Lettuce ." Nicolò Lion, Venetian procurator, distinguished himself in 1332 by uncovering Baiamonte Tiepolo's conspiracy against the Doge. Legend has it that, having fallen ill, Lion miraculously recovered by eating lettuce leaves from the garden of a Franciscan monastery. In gratitude, he built the Church of San Nicolò, known as the "Church of the Lettuce." Although the building has disappeared, Calle San Nicoleto still recalls this fascinating chapter in San Polo's history.

The Rialto Bridge and its legends

One of the stories associated with the Rialto Bridge concerns Estrella , the daughter of Doge Agnello. During a period of conflict between the Franks and the Byzantines, young Estrella was sent to Malamocco to convince the Frankish leader to spare the fleeing inhabitants. Her mission was unsuccessful, but Estrella's sacrifice, struck by a stone during the celebration of her father's rise to power, is commemorated by the Rialto Bridge.

Furthermore, few know that this bridge, spanning the Grand Canal, is shrouded in legend involving the devil himself. According to various versions, the architect Antonio Da Ponte asked the devil for help in completing the bridge's main arch . In a dramatic twist, the architect refused to offer a human life in exchange, unleashing the devil's wrath.

The Legend of the Sleeping Pope of San Polo

In 1177, Pope Alexander III was expected in Venice to sign a peace treaty with the German Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. However, the Pope feared a plot against him and decided not to lodge in the Patriarchal Palace, where he would have been easily identified and vulnerable. Instead, he opted for an unusual and risky solution: he chose to sleep outdoors . Legend has it that the Pope chose this specific location because it was close to the Patriarchal Palace and a house belonging to the Knights Templar, known for being the guardians of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. This strategic choice could have guaranteed a safe haven for Alexander III in case of need.

Legend has left a shrine containing the statue of a sleeping Pope and an engraving on a wooden panel testifying to the event. The legend is enriched by a peculiar element : those who recite an Our Father or a Hail Mary in this place receive forgiveness for their sins.

The Legend of Dona Onesta

In the picturesque San Polo district, among the evocative foundations, lies the mysterious story of "Dona Onesta ." This legend, shrouded in romance and mystery, is interwoven with different versions, offering a fascinating journey into Venice's past.

One version tells of a skilled swordsmith who lived in the area at the end of the 15th century. A customer, in love with the swordsmith's wife , decided to commission a new dagger as a pretext for frequent visits to the workshop and meeting with the woman. One day, in the swordsmith's absence, the customer abused his wife. Overcome with shame, the woman took her own life with the very dagger her husband was making for her attacker. In her honor, she was remembered as "Dona Onesta," the honest woman.

Another, less romanticized version suggests that the name refers to a prostitute who lived in one of the houses overlooking the fondamenta. This woman, called Onesta, treated her clients respectfully and honestly, earning her the name that would later become etched in the history of the sestiere. A third version tells of several men discussing the honesty of the women in that area. One of them, pointing to a woman's face carved on the wall, declared that she was the only honest woman in Venice. From that moment on, the fondamenta was always remembered as "Dona Onesta."

Discovering Venice is an interesting journey through its many legends and that is why a single day may not be enough, to reduce the budget it is not only convenient to use the various solutions offered by the Venice Card but also to book an apartment online in advance quickly and easily .